Eldar: Avatar of Khaine

Avatar

It’s taken me 18 months, but finally my Eldar Avatar is ready!

I actually bought the second-hand all-metal model back in about 2008/9, but didn’t really start painting it until April 2014. I’ve worked on other models in that time, but the Avatar has always been sat on my painting desk since, just slowly getting more and more done.

Avatar

Due to the size of the model, and the complexity and detail of him, I had to paint this in sections. I started with the legs and torso, which I wanted to reflect the molten magma that his body is supposed to be made of. So all the recessed parts were painted white, and the raised plates black. The white gave me a good base to then paint orange, then on top of that yellow down the middle of the orange, to try to give it a ‘glow’. The black parts were then edged with a few coats of dark red to add to the ‘molten’ feel. These steps took the longest of any – trying to get the recessed parts painted in light/bright colours, then touch up the edges of the plates in black without getting into the recesses and having to redo those, and getting into an infinite loop of touching up. I was surprised how long this took, but I guess there’s a lot to it!

Avatar

Next was all the gold, which was done using the trusty gold technique I found on YouTube, which gave a nice layered look.

As it’s a Biel Tan army, I wanted to include some green, so the hair, helmet and sash are all green.

Avatar

Again, with the horns (is that what they are??) I wanted to reflect the heat and molten magma feel of the model, so I went for the red-to-yellow fade. A coat of crimson wash over this helped pull the colours together and make it appear more of a gradual fade, but I did find the yellow ended up looking a bit brown-ish. So that was then re-painted to brighten it up a bit.

The hand was given many coats of dark red, highlighted with red and orange, then a few coats of crimson wash. I wanted this to have quite a bit of depth to it, and the several different coats, plus a few coats of wash, has done that for me.

Avatar

It took me a while to decide what I wanted to do with the sword. Eventually I decided on a blade that reflected the Avatar’s body, black with the glow of molten metal – hence the red/orange/yellow edging, with just a tip of white. Then I couldn’t figure out what to do with the runes on the sword. I tried a few things on another model, including a base of orange with a yellow highlight, to look like they were ‘glowing’ with heat. This did not look good. Just the opposite. It almost looked child-like with its bright colours! Glad I tried it on a spare model first! So I took a chance on the light green (I tried the runes on the bottom of the sword first, just in case!), but I’m pretty pleased with the result. It was a black undercoat, so I then painted the top of the runes white, then light green. The result is quite a strong, striking colour, I think because of the contrast against the black.

Avatar

Avatar

Avatar

Overall, I’m pretty pleased with the end result. I’d be disappointed if after 18 months I hated it! All I need to do now is be quicker – 18 months is a bit much!

(There might be a few bits I’ll touch up as well. In writing this and looking at the images, I think the hilt of the sword (boltgun metal on top of black) looks a little flat. I might need to just add a little wash to that. I’ll probably find a few other bits too, but at least for now, it’s ‘finished’).

Eldar: Dark Reapers

These are my Dark Reapers. With the reaper launcher being Heavy 2, but not blast, these are fairly average ‘heavy support’ until you add in an Exarch with Tempest Launcher. Heavy 2 blast, plus fast shot (so Heavy 3 blast), suddenly makes this a great infantry killer. Handy against those pesky Orks and ‘Nid ‘gaunts I keep facing…

Dark Reapers

Dark Reapers

Yes, I know this is an ancient Exarch model with a Web of Skulls, not even remotely resembling a Tempest Launcher, but I can live with that, because I like the model! 🙂

Dark Reapers Exarch

Modelling: Tactical Objective Markers

Tactical Objectives

I think it’s so much better to have some reasonable objective markers, rather than using dice, coins, poker chips etc. They look better, you can give them your own look and feel and they can add a little to the ‘fluff’ – e.g. it can be a radar/scanner that’s essential to control, rather than just a bland objective.

I’ve posted pictures of my first three markers, but now I’ve got some step by step photos of the next three markers.

1. Lay out the pieces on a bare stand to see how the finished marker will look.

Objective Marker

2. Glue everything in place and texture the base.

Objective Marker

3. Give the whole thing a black undercoat.

Objective Marker

4. Base coat – in this case the helmets and arm in blue and the skulls in light brown (I think this might have been a 50/50 mix of Bleached Bone and Snakebite Leather).

Objective Marker

5. Highlights – lighter blues and Bleached Bone.

Objective Marker

6. This is quite a simple one, so the final details were mostly washes and some more highlighting. Then painting the stand.

Tactical Objective - Skulls

That covers the basics, but taking each in turn –

Skulls

I’ve described how this was painted above. To make it I made a couple of small mounds with modelling clay so I could press the helmets (original Rogue Trader plastic MkVI helmets) and skulls (from Hero Quest!) into them, to give them the appearance of being a little buried. I also filed the bottom of the helmets at a bit of an angle to make them appear a little deeper too. The arm is an old metal one (who knows what from!), so I just drilled out a small hole – presumably the armour has laid there for some time, but the previous occupant’s arm has long since perished, or been eaten!

Hatch

Objective Marker

The hatch itself is from an old-school rhino, the silver thing is a dust cap from a car/bike tyre valve and the gold thing is at least in part an old Ork plasma cannon (back when they were still called plasma cannons!). The painting was fairly straight forward, using the gold technique linked here. A random transfer and a number 1 were added (the number 1 is so each objective marker can be identified) before being ‘dabbed’ with blue to give the appearance of being worn.

Ammo

Objective Marker

This was made from whatever small boxes I had in my bits box, an old laspistol and some bombs (which I think are off a 1/72 scale Junker JU87 Stuka, or some similar aircraft model from my childhood!). I’ve added a couple of aquilas and a Roman numeral 2 (for marker identification).