It’s been a while since my last post – this Rhino took longer than I thought, and I’ve been painting up a 10 man Tactical squad (which maybe I should have done in 2 batches of 5, like my assault squad) and real life has been busy too.
Anyway, onto the Rhino. Here he is in all his lit glory:
Bit grainy because I can’t work the camera in the dark, but you get the idea!
It was pretty tricky getting all the LEDs and wiring installed. I started by creating the circuit on a breadboard to make sure it would all work okay. Then I had to disassemble the stripped rhino so I could wire it up, but had to undercoat whilst in bits before adding the LEDs. Once undercoated I carefully drilled out the holes in the lights and glued the LEDs in place (superglue appears to be fine for this, but be careful not to let it cloud the LED).
I then ran a wire from each of the LED positive terminals to one side of a tiny circuit board, and all the negatives to the other. This means the LEDs were in parallel rather than serial so the voltage drop wasn’t too high. I added a resistor, switch and battery clip to the circuit board and all is good! That makes it sound way easier than it was. It was a pain in the arse!
I made the circuit board small enough to fit on the hatch on the bottom of the Rhino, so everything is concealed. A couple of magnets on the hatch means it can easily be removed, with circuit board, to allow me to flick the switch or swap out the battery.
Not sure how long the battery will last with 8 LEDs on, but I’ve had it on for a couple of hours okay.
Oh, and one of the storm bolters is magnetised so can be removed if I don’t want to pay those extra 5pts for a second one. Which has the nice side-effect of it being able to swivel 360 degrees 🙂
If you remember my Hero Quest models I entered in a comp – they came joint 29th out of 48. I’ll take that!!
Next up, Tactical squad…