Modelling: Chem Vat

Chem Vat

This is my latest terrain feature – a chemical vat tower thingy. It’s based on a Pringles tube, but it has a hidden secret that only comes out at night…

Chem Vat

Okay, so that’s not that clear, but there are 3 red LEDs underneath the platform that flash like little warning beacons.

As I said, it started life as a Pringles tube and there’s a laser cut MDF platform I got off eBay that fits nicely around the tube.

Chem Vat

Then I added some pipes (drinking straws), cabling and a few other bits. The cabling is actual wire for the LEDs. The fan on top is from a PC (maybe off an old graphics card, I can’t remember exactly where it came from) and fits the Pringles tube lid perfectly. The fan/lid is removable so I can get to the battery and switch for the LEDs.

Chem Vat

Chem Vat


Blood Bowl: Apothecary

Blood Bowl Apothecary

A classic metal painboy, painted up to be my Blood Bowl apothecary. His right arm is from a 1st ed Necromunda Goliath ganger. The gun has been modified to be an ‘urty syringe.

I went a little over the top with the blood, so had to repaint his trousers. Not so keen on them now. Maybe I’ll re-Nuln Oil them at some point.

Blood Bowl Apothecary

Blood Bowl Apothecary

Blood Bowl: Cheerleader

This is my first post for about 4 months, and the last of 2017! Happy New Year everyone! 🙂

I’ve not been painting a lot since the arrival of my own little Nurgling, but I have been trying to get a Blood Bowl team together. So far, this pretty lady is all I’ve got finished.

Blood Bowl Orc Cheerleader

Blood Bowl Orc Cheerleader

Blood Bowl Orc Cheerleader

Blood Bowl Orc Cheerleader

Watch out for more of my Blood Bowl team (but not necessarily soon!).

HeroQuest: Greenskins

Thanks to the DakkaDakka painting challenge, I’ve done some more HeroQuest figures – one of each greenskin!

HeroQuest Greenskins

This is how they looked for 25+ years, before their re-paint.

HeroQuest Greenskins

These guys were fun to paint. I really like the little goblin and his mischievous little grin! Oh, and I really recommend GW’s Blood for the Blood God paint. Makes the blood on the sword and axes look really authentic. Check out Duncan’s video guide.

HeroQuest Goblin

HeroQuest Fimir

HeroQuest Orc

And finally, a nostalgia photo…

HeroQuest Greenskins

Commission: 3D Printed Custom Mini

Someone at work asked me paint up a mini they’ve had 3D printed of their other half – and with that I got my first commission!

I got a few photos so I could get the hair, clothes and cat painted right.

The mini is from Hero Forge and this is how it looked when it arrived.

Hero Forge 3D Printed Mini

Hero Forge 3D Printed Mini

It’s a custom design – the Hero Forge website allows you to customise the mini loads – and the end result is pretty good. I just needed to make sure the paint job is suitably customised too.

This is how it turned out –

Hero Forge 3D Printed Mini

Hero Forge 3D Printed Mini

Hero Forge 3D Printed Mini

Hero Forge 3D Printed Mini

Stark Crusaders : Chapter Icon

I’ve been busy cleaning up and assembling a lot of my Starks, but that doesn’t give much to show. One of the big hold ups has been the Chapter icon for the shoulder pad. I wanted to create it from Green Stuff, rather than hand paint something (that would look awful if I did it!), or use transfers, which don’t look great, and I’d have to either use existing ones, or print my own.

But I wanted something that I can create with my limited experience of GS, and that’s reproducible. This means I’ve been looking into casting my own moulds…

I got some Oyumaru modelling compound. It’s basically like a hard jelly that softens in hot water, which you can use to make a mould. Once cool/hardened you can then press GS into it, leave it to dry/harden, and you’ve got a copy of what you made the mould from.

In theory, it’s pretty easy –
1. Drop Oyumaru into a mug of almost boiling water, for about 3 mins
2. Take it out (it’s now soft) and wipe it dry
3. Press the item you want to make a copy of into it to create the mould
4. Leave for a few hours to harden. Once done, this is your mould
5. Remove the original item and press Green Stuff into the mould
6. Leave to harden. I’d usually leave GS overnight for this stage
7. Remove the GS from the mould and you’ve got a copy of the original item. Easy!

Chapter Icon - Source

So, for my chapter icon I took a banner top from the Tactical marines box and used it pretty much as is – basically a skull with halo. I just trimmed the back first so it was flat. I also used one of the Thunder Hammers from the Vanguard Vets box to get the lightning bolt shape from it. This will be my 3rd Company insignia for the other shoulder pad.

Chapter Icon - Oyumaru

This is the Oyumaru, before and after. The after has GS in it for the chapter icon.

Chapter Icon - Lightning

And just as an example, this is one of the lightning bolts, straight out of the mould before it’s been trimmed. Picture quality isn’t great, because it’s so small, but you get the idea.

So now I’ve given it a whirl, I’ve created a few moulds of the same things. Given that GS needs at least 12 hours, possibly longer to dry, I don’t want to be doing them one at a time. So I’ve currently got 4 moulds for the chapter icon and 2 for the lightning bolt. But I’ll do a few more as well.

Below is a marine with both shoulder pads done. This guy will feature in another blog post soon(-ish), but you can see how the finished icons look. Just need to get some painted up now!

Chapter Icon

Company Insignia

A few tips for using Oyumaru and Green Stuff like this – if it’s a flat item (for example, my chapter icons that will be going on shoulder pads), once you’ve pressed the item into the Oyumaru to make the mould, press some card or similar flat surface onto the back of it, to flatten the Oyumaru. This means, once you’re putting GS in later, you’ve got a good definition of where the back is. Also, apply small amounts of GS and build it up. I started by chucking too much in, which made the finished item too thick and too hard to trim and bend (it needed bending a little to fit the shoulder pads).

The great thing with the Oyumaru is that you can reuse it. Just heat it in water the same as before and you can make a new mould. This means you can play around with it and you’re not wasting anything. It also means it’s not a problem if the mould doesn’t work out right, just try again. It took me a few attempts before I got it how I wanted it. But now I’ve used it a few times, I might be more adventurous. I might even try to make a spare bolt pistol or chainsword. Would be good to know I can make one should I find myself one short!


All the Stark Crusader’s background fluff is written, so now it’s time for a little quiz! There’s a theme to the names of all my main characters (not including the veterans of the Triune). There’s a prize for the first person to figure out what that link is*. As a reminder, the link is between these names:

  • Captain Lando Stratos
  • Chaplain Merak Khamsin
  • Apothecary Orsi Thalius
  • Epistolary Librarian Idris Astura
  • Codicer Librarian Ardea
  • Lexicanium Librarian Augusta

And an added clue is the Starks’ home planet Phedra fits the link too.

*The prize is a brief moment of respect from me. Very brief.