Stark Crusaders: Rhino/Razorback/Predator

This one’s been on the go for a while. I just needed to get some of the options – like the pintle-mounted storm bolter and hunter killer missile – finished off.

Rhino/Razorback/Predator

Both side sponsons, the guns on the sponsons, the turret/gun/top hatch and the storm bolter are all magnetised. And the radar/hunter killer missile atop the turret are held in place with a pin. This means I can swap out everything and change this between a Predator, Razorback or Rhino. I have the autocannon and heavy bolters for the Predator magnetised, but not painted up. If I find I want to use them, I’ll get them painted.

Predator with 4 lascannons and hunter killer missile
Rhino/Razorback/Predator

Razorback with 2 lascannons and radar
Rhino/Razorback/Predator

Rhino with pintle-mounter storm bolter
Rhino/Razorback/Predator

The hunter killer missile –
Rhino/Razorback/Predator

And I’ve called the tank Invictus – Latin for ‘unconquered’ or ‘invincible’ – after some pretty good showings in a few games. Let’s see how it holds up in 8th ed!
Rhino/Razorback/Predator

Oh, and to see more on the magnetising, look here.

Stark Crusaders: Rhino with lights

It’s been a while since my last post – this Rhino took longer than I thought, and I’ve been painting up a 10 man Tactical squad (which maybe I should have done in 2 batches of 5, like my assault squad) and real life has been busy too.

Anyway, onto the Rhino. Here he is in all his lit glory:

Rogue Trader Rhino

Bit grainy because I can’t work the camera in the dark, but you get the idea!

Rogue Trader Rhino

Rogue Trader Rhino

It was pretty tricky getting all the LEDs and wiring installed. I started by creating the circuit on a breadboard to make sure it would all work okay. Then I had to disassemble the stripped rhino so I could wire it up, but had to undercoat whilst in bits before adding the LEDs. Once undercoated I carefully drilled out the holes in the lights and glued the LEDs in place (superglue appears to be fine for this, but be careful not to let it cloud the LED).

Rogue Trader Rhino Wiring

I then ran a wire from each of the LED positive terminals to one side of a tiny circuit board, and all the negatives to the other. This means the LEDs were in parallel rather than serial so the voltage drop wasn’t too high. I added a resistor, switch and battery clip to the circuit board and all is good! That makes it sound way easier than it was. It was a pain in the arse!

Rogue Trader Rhino Wiring

Rogue Trader Rhino Wiring

I made the circuit board small enough to fit on the hatch on the bottom of the Rhino, so everything is concealed. A couple of magnets on the hatch means it can easily be removed, with circuit board, to allow me to flick the switch or swap out the battery.

Not sure how long the battery will last with 8 LEDs on, but I’ve had it on for a couple of hours okay.

Oh, and one of the storm bolters is magnetised so can be removed if I don’t want to pay those extra 5pts for a second one. Which has the nice side-effect of it being able to swivel 360 degrees 🙂

Rogue Trader Rhino

Rogue Trader Rhino

Rogue Trader Rhino

If you remember my Hero Quest models I entered in a comp – they came joint 29th out of 48. I’ll take that!!

Next up, Tactical squad…